Mohamed A Elsayed
Analyzing wave breaking in a barred beach using wavelet
In this paper, a cross-shore profile evolution
model, Uniform Beach Sediment Transport-Time-
Averaged Cross-Shore (UNIBEST-TC), is used. The
model was developed at WL/Delft hydraulic laboratory
in the Netherlands. The model is used to predict wave
height in a barred beach (Egmond site, The Netherlands)
and the results show that there is a good agreement
between the measured and predicted values by the model.
In the present study, Morlet wavelet is used to distinguish
the breaking waves it is integrated over frequency to
provide the temporal variation of localized total energy.
The study shows that the local peaks of the energy
densities correspond to the events of wave breaking in
the predicted–wave time series. Furthermore, the wave
energy distribution shows a tendency to decrease in the
off-shore direction of the inner bar.